How Murrumbeena new cafe hotspot Levi got its name – HERALD SUN
Move over, pancakes and waffles. This spectacular brunch pavlova is the latest sweet treat on Melbourne’s brunch scene — just in time for Christmas.
Megan Miller 2 min read December 7, 2019 – 9:00 AM
Benedict with poached eggs, cheese kransky, creamed spinachy, sauerkraut and hollandaise. Picture: Jason Loucas
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Visiting a favourite cafe is like slipping into something more comfortable, like a well-worn pair of jeans.
It’s a fitting analogy for Murrumbeena’s Levi, a former denim and textile factory turned sprawling light-filled cafe with seating for a 170-strong hungry horde.
Levi might have only opened at the end of October but it’s settled in very nicely thank you, already looking and feeling like a neighbourhood fixture, with a flood of destination diners blowing out the weekend wait list.
Not only do hospo dab hands Harry Butler, of Frank’s cafe in Cheltenham, and Lucas Sproson, from Moorabbin’s Hallelujah Coffee, bring experience as two of the owners, they’ve cleverly enlisted brunch boss, head chef Emma Jeffrey, to run the kitchen.
Levi’s brunch pavlova — for the win. Picture: Simon Shiff
Jeffrey made her name with that luxe lobster doughnut burger at Armadale’s Mammoth cafe before time at Gilson in South Yarra and Hawthorn East’s Mr & Mrs Anderson.
Here, her clever dishes include a brunch pavlova, a cracking crackling-topped hot chicken roll and one of Melbourne’s best benedicts.
Whether you dine inside or under the front retractable roof, you’ll be struck by the sheer size of the venue, cleverly broken up into zones, with the bonus for parents of a genius kids’ area at the back with a TV, mini climbing wall and chalkboard.
More time to savour that Benedict ($21). It’s a happy stack of two poached eggs on toast with a layer each of excellent sauerkraut and creamed spinach, all draped in creamy citrus-scented hollandaise to counter what can best be described as a cheese kransky patty. Wonderfully balanced, every flavour works.
Levi’s omelette with pork, kewpie and water chestnut. Picture: Jason Loucas
The chicken roll goes gourmet at Levi. Picture: Simon Shiff
Turkish chilli eggs ($19) also take poached eggs up a notch, dressing them in a hot chilli butter, with whipped yoghurt a creamy foil.
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Elsewhere, the fast food fave — the hot chicken roll ($19) — goes gourmet, teaming a soft Bakery Lievito roll with quality bits of roast chook, chunks of herby housemade stuffing and French fries, all topped with crunchy chicken crackling with a pot of deeply delicious jus on the side made from chicken bones reduced over a few days. Seriously good.
There’s also a three-egg flavour bomb omelette ($20) laden with pork nubs, water chestnuts and a bean shoot salad, squiggled with kewpie mayo and sprinkled with bonito flakes and fried curry leaves for added oomph.
Like it sweet? The pretty pavlova ($17.50) stars a meringue base with poached peaches, a hot white chocolate mousse, vanilla cream and a mandarin granita that’s a triumph of tastes, temperatures and textures.
The interiors are lovely to look at. Picture: Simon Shiff
The kids’ play zone at Levi. Picture: Simon Shiff
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For the kids, order up crowd-pleasing toasties ($9), waffles ($10) and a burger with fries ($12).
To drink, Hallellujah coffee is in the machine, while cold sips include cold-pressed juices, two smoothies and milkshakes with the usual line-up of flavours.
Sparkling water is free.
With a liquor license granted, hours may extend into some evenings in the new year.
Blessed with good genes, Levi has stamped its place in Melbourne’s southeast in no time at all. Definitely worth trying on for size.
LEVI
6 Railway Pde, Murrumbeena